Tag: guardian

  • Riesling: The Queen of Grapes

    Riesling: The Queen of Grapes

    Citrus aromas and a refreshing acidity make riesling a great accompaniment to food, and the latest offerings, ranging from bone dry to lusciously sweet, are nothing short of regal.

    Riesling is a polarising wine, but once you get the riesling bug it’s hard to shake. Originating in Germany, this white grape took the fancy of the clergy folk to such an extent that in the mid-18th century a local cardinal declared that the whole Rheingau region should be planted with riesling. Since then, the grape has become synonymous with German wine, and its characteristic citrus, floral and petrol aromas have accrued fans all over the world.

    But as every partygoer knows there’s a danger in having too much of a good thing. Riesling steadily gained popularity until the 1970s, when an overproduction of cheap, sickly-sweet examples of the wine trickled through the market. Rather than quench the public thirst for the varietal, it gave many people an aversion and poor old riesling faded into the bittersweet background.

    But it isn’t considered the queen of grapes for nothing. Riesling’s ability to reflect its terroir, age gracefully and deliver expressive wines, ranging from bone dry to lusciously sweet, means it can pair with everything from Thai food to calamari and even lemon pie.

    Cono Sur’s rieslings are grown in Bío-Bío, Chile’s cooler southern region, which lends the wine a spine of acidity and a balance of sweetness, fit for any banquet.

    Written for The Guardian, print May 2017

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  • Pinot Noir: The Beauty & The Beast

    Pinot Noir: The Beauty & The Beast

  • Viognier: One Lucky Grape

    Viognier: One Lucky Grape

    Written for The Guardian, 5 May 2017

    Always a tricky one to pronounce (ignore the g, it’s pronounced vee-on-nay), viognier has a long and interesting history. While most consider viognier a Rhône variety, it actually originated in Croatia.

    Legend has it that Roman Emperor Probus was so enamoured with the wine – and its characteristic peach, apricot and blossom aromas – that he ordered the variety to be brought into the Rhône in AD281. It has been used in the region’s wines ever since.

    What few people remember is that viognier actually came close to extinction in the 1960s, when just 15 acres remained. Its demise could perhaps be put down to the variety being particularly challenging to grow and ferment. That is not, however, where the story ends. In the past few decades, New World winemakers took up the mantle of making viognier, and it now flourishes in both northern and southern hemispheres. Each region offers a unique expression of the wine, but all share the beloved orchard fruit and invigorating blossom aromas that enticed Emperor Probus almost 2,000 years ago.

    Viognier’s warm fruit aromas together with its luscious, full body make it well-suited to food that often seems hard to pair – such as spicy stir-fries and sweet-and-sour dishes.

    Written for The Guardian, Published in Print Magazine May 2017

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  • 10 Surprising Wine Pairings: from Pizza & Prosecco to Breakfast & Bordeaux

    10 Surprising Wine Pairings: from Pizza & Prosecco to Breakfast & Bordeaux

    Written for The Guardian

    Popcorn and champagne
    This Lady and the Tramp-style pairing might seem strange, but the toasty, buttery goodness of lightly salted popcorn with a well-aged champagne is pure delight. Add truffle butter to pimp your popcorn.

    Macaroni cheese and chardonnay
    Macaroni cheese is a child’s proud favourite, and an adult’s guilty pleasure. Ramp up the guilt by pairing your mac and cheese with the smooth, buttery chardonnay.

    Oysters and beaujolais
    Yes, sauvignon blanc is the go-to pairing for oysters, but does that mean red wine lovers don’t get to play? Not anymore. Tread carefully, though. While the tannins of a cabernet sauvignon would send any self-respecting oyster back into its shell, a chilled beaujolais, with its fresh and soft gamay grape, makes a surprisingly delicious partner for oysters.

    Mexican tacos and riesling
    An age-old rule of wine pairing is match spice with sweet – and that dash of sweetness in an off-dry riesling makes a surprisingly good sidekick to spicy Mexican tacos.

    Meat feast pizza and prosecco
    Pizza can go with many different wines, but the touch of sweetness in prosecco works wonders with spicy pepperoni.

    Sunday roast with sherry
    Dad might already have his favourite claret lined up for the family roast, but try asking grandma next time. Sherry is making a comeback and oloroso sherry – with its dry, full body and nutty, zesty and sultana notes – goes perfectly with a roast joint of pork and homemade stuffing.

    Taco Mexican tex med food still life

    Seared tuna and pinot noir
    Tired of trotting out fish with white wine? What about pairing a cool-climate pinot noir with a well-seasoned tuna steak. The subtle spiciness and fresh acidity also cuts through  fatty salmon and works well with a range of marinades or peppery crusts.

    Bacon and eggs with bordeaux blends
    If you love to eat breakfast at night, keep your corkscrew handy. Eggs are notoriously difficult to pair with wine, but whip up an omelette with smoky bacon, mature cheese and some mushrooms and you’ve got a dish just begging to be served alongside a smooth, well-aged bordeaux.

    Strawberry ice-cream and rosé
    Who says you can’t drink wine with ice-cream? The light red fruit and berry notes of a fresh, chilled rosé make a perfect summer companion for strawberry ice-cream.

    Marmalade sandwiches and sauternes
    Paddington Bear didn’t often hold court on his love of wines, but I would bet he would agree with this pairing: rich, orange marmalade with the exquisite sweetness of sauternes. It’s also a great pairing for homemade marmalade cake and (shop-bought) mini-marmalade cakes covered in chocolate.

    See the published article on TheGuardian.com