Tag: pinot noir

Pinot Noir: The Beauty & The Beast

Written for The Guardian, published print 12 May 2017

Pinot noir is, notoriously, the world’s most fickle grape. So why have vintners been on a mission to make good pinot noir for thousands of years? Because when you get it right, it can be one of the finest wines in the world. Resplendent with red fruit aromas, such as cherries, cranberries and raspberries, and with a unique earthy character of truffles, forest floor and black pepper, pinot noir can be a pretty special wine, pairing impeccably with stuffed mushrooms, tacos or charcuterie.

Unlike some grape varieties that will produce decent wine just about anywhere, pinot noir needs very precise conditions to thrive. Too hot or too cold and the grape will either become flabby or refuse to ripen.

Fortunately for pinot lovers, Cistercian monks in Burgundy (the spiritual home of pinot noir) have been writing annual harvest reports on their toils and troubles with the variety ever since AD1000. These meticulously detailed reports have led the way for winemakers to find the perfect growing conditions in other countries around the world.

Chile is one of the world’s top pinot noir producers – boasting the ideal combination of cool, foggy mornings and warm, sunny afternoons. There, Cono Sur, the best-loved pinot producer in the UK, continues the age-old tradition of studious experimentation in its quest to capture the grape’s fickle magic – and the hearts of wine enthusiasts.

Written for The Guardian, published print 12 May 2017

May 16, 2017
Top 5 wines from Patagonia

Recently I’ve been down south exploring the gorgeous wilderness of Patagonia, which definitely needs to be on everyone’s bucket list. At the same time, I’ve been exploring the wine lists and cellars of various dining establishments and here are five fabulous wines to try.

Bodega Chacra, Pinot Noir

This boutique production winery makes a beautifully delicate Pinot Noir with nuanced flavors of cherry and earthy hints. The grapes come from older organic and biodynamic vineyards and the project is the brain child of Italian wine-royalty Piero Incisa della Rocchetta. Either try the Cincuenta y Cinco Pinot (from a 1955 vineyard), or the Trienta y Dos Pinot (yes, you guessed it – from a 1932 vineyard).

Bodega Patritti, Pinot Noir Primogenito

Patagonia is quite rightly the land of Pinot Noir and this Pinot is very nice for good for its appealing price point. Fruity, fresh and bold enough to stand up to yummy Patagonian lamb stone-oven pizza!

Humberto Canale, Old Vineyard Riesling

One of the pioneers of Patagonian winemaking, Humberto Canale make many wines, however this Riesling is a real surprise. Made from older vineyards (from 1937) in Rio Negro is one of the very few single variety Rieslings you’ll find in Argentina. Abound with peach and citrus fruits and a nice oily mouth making it a good wine for the many varieties of shellfish you’ll find here.

Bodega Fin del Mundo, Tannat FIN

You expect to see Tannat more in Uruguay than Argentina, but this single variety is surprisingly supple for such a characterful grape. Intense and concentrated with 18 months in oak, from the winery at the ‘end of the world’ (fin del mundo).

Saurus, Deseado Sparkling

With dinosaur fossils discovered in their cellar, Saurus has a story but also has the good wines to back it up. This is a wine for the ladies (or for the men who can pull off pink shirts) as it is a slightly sweet sparkling Torrontes. Perfect for a winter apple crumble by a warm fire!

July 1, 2014
Pinotsaurus: Pinot Noir and Dinosaurs in Neuquen

I looked at the grey stony structure. Almost the same size as my entire body, this was just a single vertebra of an entire spine – just one piece of the enormous puzzle that makes up one of the largest creatures that ever walked the earth – the 90 million year old fossil of an Argentinosaurus. Imagining it makes you think so hard that the back of your skull itches.

If you do have the itch for dinosaurs, Neuquén really is the place to go. An unassuming city, most people pass through it. It is a transport hub and is called the ‘gateway to Patagonia’ because it basically connects the deep south to everywhere else – Buenos Aires, Mendoza or nearby ski and mountain resort town Bariloche. Few tourists venture beyond the bus station doors or airport runway. That is a real shame. Because Neuquén has some of the richest paleontology sites in the world and some pretty interesting wine to keep you company in the evening too. With the massive investment pouring in from oil refineries, the city is becoming more and more affluent and is one to watch.

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September 12, 2012