Tag: Sicily

  • Sicily: A rummage through Godā€™s larder

    Sicily: A rummage through Godā€™s larder

    Written for theĀ Circle Update,Ā Circle of Wine Writers

    fruitstand2

    Some people call Sicily ā€˜Godā€™s kitchenā€™ and its not hard to see why. A bountiful coast filled with sea creatures coming from the Mediterranean Sea and coast of Africa; an agriculturally rich land with sunny climes with cool coastal areas as well as sub tropical heat; and a history of immigration and culinary influences from Greece, Africa and the Arab worldā€¦ Sicily is bound to have good food.

    saladDuring our week on the island we gained an insight into Sicilian cuisine, as well as a few extra pounds around the bellyā€¦ Maybe itā€™s easiest to sum up our foodie experiences by breaking it down into courses, and there were many. Typical in Italy, any dining experience kicks off with antipasti and with such a splendid array of food it can be quite a challenge to remember to leave room for the other three courses. Abundant in Sicily is fresh produce so as expected we found a range of marinated, infused, stuffed, roasted, grilled, toasted, carpaccio-ed and simply sliced vegetables like aubergine, mushrooms, olives, peppers, tomatoes, and artichokes. Caponata is a traditional Sicilian preparation of tomatoes and aubergine which was splendid splodged all over homemade bread. An exemplary dish that showed the heavenly quality of Sicilyā€™s produce is the simple Fennel and Orange salad: fresh fennel finely sliced with juicy orange segments and a splash of olive oil. This can be executed to perfection on the island, but requires the fresh, just-from-Nonnaā€™s-tree oranges which are so sweet and fragrant that no doubt Gabriel Garcia Marquez would have found diamonds in them.

    antipasti

    Among the antipasti we often found more street food style dishes, like the crispy rice balls known as Arancini which are stuffed with a ragu, meat or cheese. Another fried typicality is Panelle, a chickpea fritter, which is simply a soft warm morsel which helps you swig down some more Carricante. Probably the favorite antipasti for everyone was the fresh cheese thoughā€¦ Homemade ricotta that was so creamy and fine I would have smeared it on my face without hesitation; fresh buffalo mozzarella that oozed delicious buffalo milk; and hard cheeses ripe with salty maturity.

    (more…)

  • Touring Sicily’s vineyards…

    Touring Sicily’s vineyards…

    Written for the Circle Update, Circle of Wine Writers

    estate

    Tasca dā€™Almerita

    ā€œYou are home!ā€ Conrad Maurigi said as we arrived. ā€œIf only!ā€ would have been my response, not from being tired on last stop of the week but because Tasca dā€™Almerita is a place of sublime beauty. Lolloping hillsides striped with green vines and studded with white sheep set the scene for this beautiful large farmhouse in the center of Sicily. If my home was like this I donā€™t think Iā€™d leave, not even to pop out for milk.

    And actually popping out for milk on Tasca dā€™Almerita isnā€™t necessary because the whopping 500 hectare estate encompasses not only 55 wine varieties in the vineyards, but also orchards, vegetable patches, a thick forest and flocks upon flocks of sheep. At dinner we reaped the rewards of their sustainable farmyard approach with divine homemade ricotta, delicious lamb and stuffed aubergine with lashings of estate-produced olive oil. Yes, life is ā€˜dolceā€™ in Sicilyā€¦

    In a perfect aristocratic fairytale, the estate is owned by a family of Counts and two brothers who still run the show with their 200 staff members spread across five vineyards. The largest vineyard is the Regaleali estate (where we were in Valledolmo) and they produce a wide variety of native and international varieties; on Salina island they produce Malvasia in a nice floral and peppery dry wine and a sweet passito version; from an island on the coast of Tipani they produce a Grillo; from the central region of Monreal they produce a range of varieties; and finally in their portfolio they have an Etna wine too, a Nerello Mascalese. The crown is the Regaleali estate though, where we were staying the evening and where they have a cooking school as well as seven family rooms for guests to stay overnight.

    A delicious dinner, vineyard tour and extensive tasting in the morning all flew by and before you knew it we were back on the coach with the sad realization that Tasca Conti dā€™Almerita wasnā€™t our homeā€¦ It was for one night though, and that was certainly a highlight of the trip.

    (more…)