Tag: uruguay

Decanter: South America’s winemakers take flight

Winemakers in South America are embarking on a new era – one of quiet self-confidence and curious self-discovery, bringing forth some of the most exciting and individual wines yet.

Distinctive regional personality is at the core of this new movement and it highlights a strong departure from the varietal – and style-driven wines that dominated the South American wine scene in the early 2000s.

As the role and influence of foreign consultants diminishes, there’s a new breed of ‘flying winemakers’ on the ascent – natives who are shaping the wines and industry in South America, and beyond.

Read the full article in Decanter.

October 17, 2023
SevenFifty: Exploring the wines of Uruguay

Published in SevenFifty.Daily in January 2020

With Tannat and Albariño as lead stars, the country is making some of the most distinctive wines in South America.

Nestled between Argentina and Brazil, Uruguay is the fourth-largest wine producer in South America—its output in 2018 was 18 million liters. Although the bonds of tango and carnival link it culturally to Argentina and Brazil, respectively, the wine production of Uruguay is unique on the continent.

Shaped by a mild, Atlantic climate, Uruguay is more comparable to European wine regions than its Latin American neighbors, which have continental, Pacific, or subtropical influences.

“Uruguay reminds me more of Portugal—a small place with a maritime climate on the Atlantic Ocean, with variable weather,” says Hans Vinding Diers, who is a consultant winemaker at Bodega Oceánica José Ignacio in Maldonado, and has made wine on four continents. “You can also compare Uruguay to Bordeaux, as it has the same Atlantic influence.”

This Old World climate in the New World is part of the reason buyers are getting excited about Uruguayan wine; there’s also the thrill of discovering something new. “What we love about Uruguayan wine is its potential to become a major player in the South America wine map,” says Julio Robledo, a co-owner of Grand Cata, a wine store in Washington, D.C., that specializes in Latin American producers. “There is still much to see and discover from Uruguay, and diversity is the key. Many of our customers have a certain idea about Uruguay and Tannat, but when they taste a new bottle or a new grape from Uruguay, they definitely feel surprised by the quality.”

Read the full article online at SevenFifty.Daily

Read more of Amanda Barnes articles on Uruguay at South America Wine Guide

March 18, 2021
Exploring Montevideo & Canelones in Uruguay

Written for Decanter Magazine, October 2019

Exploring Uruguay and its wine regions feels like you’ve just been let in on one of South America’s best kept secrets. One of the smallest countries on the continent, Uruguay doesn’t have the same bombastic personality as many of its Latin American neighbours but sits as a silent siren for those in the know.

Uruguay’s steadily growing economy and progressive politics have made it a haven of international investment and its sleepy capital city is becoming increasingly cosmopolitan with Uruguay’s wine culture coming to the fore. As word gets out, there’s no better time to discover Montevideo and its wine route.

Uncovering the backstreets and idiosyncrasies of Montevideo

The tortured notes of the ivories being tickled are all the more soul stirring under candlelight. The pianist expertly pulls us through undulating emotions as he pieces together tango songs that were first written on the streets of Montevideo a century ago. Although this tango dinner show at Primuseum is number one on TripAdvisor, the small collection of warmly lit tables huddled around the piano and its pile of crusty old music sheets is satisfyingly intimate and personal. The friendly waiter pours me another glass of rich Tannat as I dig into my steak and wonder why Montevideo never received the same hype for its steak and tango as Buenos Aires.

Tango was, afterall, invented between the ports and streets of both cities, and the steak is every bit as good (if not better, dare I say) in this country where cows outnumber people 3 to 1. But Uruguayans don’t boast about their claim to tango or steak. Nor do they very often confess that they have the longest carnival in the world — their 40 days makes Rio’s six look positively meagre. “We don’t really like to talk about ourselves too much,” a Uruguayan friend tells me the next evening over wine in a hip urban market, Mercado Ferrando. “It just isn’t our style.”

Although no-one will admit it, style seems effortless in Montevideo. The streets are a parade of architecture movements ranging from neoclassical giants like Palacio Salvo and Teatro Solís to belle époque facades and modernist beach houses nonchalantly strung together. Even the airport is garnered in design awards.

“Montevideo has more art-deco architecture than any city other than New York — and yet it’s still off-the-radar as a destination,” British-born Karen Higgs, author of Guru’Guay Guide to Montevideo, tells me over coffee in the Old City where she’s been based since 2000. “The secret delights of Montevideo are not immediately evident, which is what makes their discovery all the more delightful.”

Indeed, Montevideo’s streets can in fact feel eerily quiet during the afternoons and it’s hard to believe that a third of the country lives here. In the world’s most laid back capital city, sipping yerba mate on the 22km seafront promenade constitutes for a significant portion of weekend plans. In the evening however, Montevideo is a hive of cultural happenings — albeit mainly behind closed doors.

The Old City’s historic bars and cafes are a good place to start, and hark back to the golden era of Uruguay’s literati (including many tango composers). Catching a milonga is a quintessential Montevideo experience, but it is perhaps the murga that gives you a deeper insight into the idiosyncrasies of Uruguayan culture. This street performance combining political satire with comedy and song is a pillar of Uruguayan Carnival but performances and rehearsals are held year-round. Another rich cultural expression of Uruguay is candombe — an invigorating dance performed to the beat of many drums which tells the tales of the African slave experience in Uruguay.

The rich cultural fabric of Uruguay is there to be disinterred, and a few days in the capital is just enough to scratch beneath the surface.

The wine route and wineries of Canelones

Although Canelones hosts two third’s of Uruguay’s wine production, 90% of the wineries are family owned and it is often the family who welcome you in — making you privy to their wine heritage within moments. With mainly boutique productions, each family has their own unique stamp on their wines and exploring Canelones provides a wealth of diversity in wine styles and varieties.

Vineyards appear from within the city limits and nearby Canelones became Uruguay’s prime vine growing territory in the 20th century precisely because of its proximity to the thirsty domestic market. The mild Atlantic climate is also conducive to quality grape production with rich clay soils spread across the undulating hillsides which channel refreshing coastal breezes throughout the wine region — essential for this more humid climate…

Read the full article by Amanda Barnes in Decanter Magazine, October 2019 edition. Or online at Decanter.com

August 30, 2019
Wine festivals in South America

South Americans know how to throw a party, and almost before the first grape has been picked, the harvest is being celebrated with wine festivals across the Southern Cone.

Traditionally the fiesta de vendimia (harvest festival) was a small celebration in the villages to celebrate the end of the harvest and a good vintage – the bigger the crop, the bigger the party. But today’s harvest festivals are far more elaborate with mammoth theatre productions, decadent wine tastings and VIP tickets sold months in advance.

Ica, Peru: Second week of March

Peru is the first wine country of South America and while production is mainly focused on Pisco today, in order to distill Pisco you have to make a lot of wine first.

Although Peru’s harvest celebrations date back to pre-Incan times, the annual wine harvest festival has only been held since 1958 and attracts an influx of revellers who come to greet the new harvest queen and taste fresh cachina (partly-fermented must) before moving onto the stronger aguardientes and mistela (fortified must). Music, grape-stomping and bountiful Peruvian cuisine are all part of this Pisco-fuelled festivity in Peru’s main wine region…

Read the full article on Decanter

August 12, 2018
Uruguay: More than Tannat, Decanter October 2016

A vast array of soils and terroirs gives this diminutive but plucky nation the tools it needs to forge a strong identity of its own, says Amanda Barnes. And it’s the growing reputation of Uruguay’s white wines that’s grabbing the attention…

Read the full article here, Decanter October 2016

Read more on Uruguay on 80 Harvests

The essential guide to Canelones

Wine travel guide to Monteviejo & Canelones

Beyond Tannat: Interview with winemaker Pablo Fallabrino

The Story of Tannat: Interview with winemaker Francisco Carrau

September 1, 2016
Is Uruguayan Tannat old hat?

Written for Around the World in 80 Harvests

The tiny South American country is synonymous with this plucky variety that was first brought to its shores by Basque settler Pascual Harriague in 1870. Since then it has dominated Uruguay’s wine scene, accounting for up to 50% of plantations at its peak.

“Why Tannat?”, you might ask. Put simply, it is one of the most resistant varieties. Its roots don’t mind getting soggy and, come rain or shine, you’ll get a wine with colour, acidity and tannins. That’s an important factor to take into consideration for a nation which (unlike its South American brothers Argentina and Chile) receives an average of 1300mm of rain per year. The rest of the New World may produce fruit-bomb wines filled with sunshine and sugar, but Uruguay is an anomaly – more similar in climate to Bordeaux than Barossa. So Tannat triumphed and took over as the wine that delivered every vintage…

Read the full article on 80 Harvests

July 15, 2016
Empanada and Wine Pairing

Written for Grape Collective

If there’s one dish that you’ll find in every country in South America, it’s the mighty empanada. It may be fluffy and moist, or crisp and crunchy, bite sized or head sized, baked or fried… whatever texture and filling variation comes your way, these pockets of pastry are a perfect, unpretentious appetizer that pair wonderfully with the region’s wines.

One of my favorite dinner parties to throw is an empanada party – you only need to make one batch of empanada dough (a basic pie pastry) and you can let your imagination run wild with playful pairings, and you almost always find they work with South American wines. Here are some typical, and not-so-typical, South American empanadas to try pairing with the region’s wines.

Chile & Peru: Seafood Empanadas, Pisco and Sauvignon Blanc

These neighboring countries have a lot in common: stunning Pacific coastlines, high altitude winemaking and both claim to be the creator of Pisco! It’s not strictly a wine, but Pisco is grape-derived and, besides, a punchy Pisco Sour cocktail is a perfect way to kick off a South America tasting. Pisco (you can side with Peru or Chile) combined with lime juice, egg whites, powdered sugar (or syrup) and a dash of bitters makes a light and frothy, sweet and sour cocktail predestined to get everyone in the mood.

The best pair for Pisco Sour is traditional ceviche for a tongue twisting lime-citrus punch, fresh seafood flavors and aromatic cilantro. While I am the first to say that nothing beats a traditional ceviche, my unorthodox suggestion is an empanada twist on the national dish (let’s hope no Chilean or Peruvian great-grandmothers are turning in their graves at the thought!)

Leave the mixed seafood (cooked) and fish (raw, in cubes — try sea bass, grouper, sole, snapper or salmon) marinating with lime juice, finely chopped onion (salad onions or regular), red chilies, yellow pepper and cilantro for between 10 and 20 minutes, then stuff a couple spoonfuls of ceviche into your empanada skins, seal them well and deep fry until golden. The result is an empanada with warm, crispy pastry that contrasts wonderfully with the cool Pisco Sour but both harmonize in citrus, spice, sweetness and freshness. That should get everyone’s tongue tingling for the next course.

Another unmissable South American seafood empanada combo is the Chilean-inspired scallop and cheese empanada. Chile has a beautiful coastline and all along the seafront (especially towards the north) you’ll find empanada kiosks serving these freshly fried or baked empanadas that are just impeccable with coastal Chilean Sauvignon Blanc. I recommend wines from Casablanca, San Antonio, Leyda and Limari regions, and look for wineries like Amaral, Casas del Bosque, Leyda, Matetic and Tabali. The crisp, herbaceous and zesty Sauvignon Blanc pairs wonderfully with the sweet scallops and warm, saline melted cheese for a salty freshness and salivating snack that gives you a little taste of the ocean. Prawn and cheese empanadas also work well with Chilean Sauvignon Blanc, and if you really want to impress your friends try and get hold of some Chilean King Crab which goes a bit better with the rounder and creamier Chilean coastal Chardonnay.

Argentina & Uruguay: Meat Empanadas, Malbec, Torrontes, and Tannat

In Argentina and Uruguay, carne is king. Every dinner plate is dominated by steak, street corners are evocatively fragranced with a waft of asado (BBQ) in the air, and empanadas are almost always stuffed with their beloved cow.

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February 15, 2015
Top 5 wine countries in South America

Written for the Grape Collective, January 2015

Where else in the world can you find glaciers, jungles, extreme deserts, and high altitude mountains all within one continent? South America is a land of extremes and even though the Spanish introduced wine over 500 years ago, it is still a new discovery to many wine drinkers worldwide.

Although you might more readily associate the continent with daring bikinis, football madness and the ability to throw a good fiesta, South America is increasingly putting itself on the wine radar for high quality wines at pocket friendly prices with a bold trend towards extreme climates producing exciting wines.

Visiting the wine regions can combine exotic highlands, stunning beaches, mountain plantations at dizzying heights and gentle sloping hillsides in between. Whether you are going to discover South America’s wines first hand by traveling there, or from behind a bar at home, as the New World continent with the biggest wine production, South America is one to watch!

Argentina: Where Malbec Runs Faster than Gauchos

It may be the biggest wine producer on the continent (and has international swagger as the 6th producer worldwide) but there really is just one variety that everyone associates with Argentina… and accounting for over 30% of the county’s red wine production, it is a correct assumption that Argentina’s lifeblood is Malbec.

The variety boomed in this dry and dusty cowboy country over a decade ago and is still going strong as the most important variety for the country. Contrary to popular belief though, there is more to Argentina than gauchos, steak and Malbec… You’ll now find a wide range of red, white and sparkling wines in the cosmopolitan bars of Argentina’s cities, and increasingly in cities worldwide.

Argentina’s vineyards are mostly located along the Western spine of the country where the high altitudes offered by the Andes mountains balance out with the abundant sunlight and warm continental climate on the flat plains below. Most of the vineyards are in a rain shadow allowing vines to thrive up and down the country: in the mid west lays Mendoza where you’ll find the juiciest and most generous Malbec as well as ripe and rich Cabernet (both Sauvignon and Franc), jammy Merlot, attractive oaked Chardonnay and soft fruit Sauvignon Blanc; in the north towards Salta and La Rioja you can expect Argentina’s native white grape, Torrontes, to steal the show with its captivating and exuberant jasmine and tropical nose, or try some of the intense high altitude reds; and furthest south is Patagonia, the heartland of Argentine Pinot Noir and cooler varieties.

Budget around $20 to get good value and occasionally spend upwards where you’ll find excellent quality in reds and blends. Don’t miss out on the sparkling wines either – they are another delicious benefit of Argentina’s 500 year-long love affair with vino.

Biggest Surprise – Argentina’s cool Cabernet Franc blends.

Most Comparable To – South Africa or the USA.

If You’re in the Mood For – Wild West and juicy reds.

Phrase You’ll Walk Away Saying – Che, ese Malbec es una joya! (Dude, this Malbec is a gem!)

Chile: The Skinny Country That Is Fat With Diversity

Hot on the heels of Argentina as the second biggest producer, Chile is commercially strong but is geographically isolated from the rest of South America, buffered by its extremities of the Atacama Desert, the freezing cold Pacific Ocean, the high Andes mountains, and a frozen tail of fjords and glaciers. The unique long and thin shape of Chile means that you get a great mélange of climates and landscapes within one country, and certainly within one case of wine.

The famous Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon with rich cassis and ripe fruits usually comes from the warmer Central Valleys where sunshine and lolling hillsides characterize the zone and produce intense, fruit-bomb wines. This is also where you’ll find some of the country’s best Carmenere: the obscure French grape that became a Chilean champion for its smoked pepper, sweet red fruit and food friendly nature.

If you head to the Pacific coast, you’ll find refreshing and zesty Sauvignon Blanc, dark and spicy Syrah, elegant Chardonnay and excellent value Pinot Noir from Chile’s cool, coastal regions. There are more cool climates to explore further south in Bio Bio and Maule where you find the country’s oldest vines producing unique Carignan, Pais (or Mission), Malbec and field blends.

Last but not least, up at the far north of Chile, the star-bright Atacama and Elqui regions – with some of the clearest skies in the world – are producing racy whites and intensely aromatic Syrah.

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January 30, 2015
Southern Cone Harvest Report 2013

Written for The Drinks Business

With most of Argentina experiencing outstanding quality and Chile encountering one of the strangest harvests in their recent history, this year’s harvest has been remarkable.

Across Argentina the flowering period and harvest went by almost without a climatic hitch. In Mendoza, where the sun shines on average more than 300 days a year, the real risks for winemakers are frosts, hailstorms and burning Zonda winds sometimes of biblical proportions. This year as harvest comes to an end, winemakers throughout Argentina are celebrating one of their best harvests yet – without any climatic irregularities.

A mild spring and a cool summer, in these usually hotter climes, also helped with more elegant ripening and allowed winemakers to harvest at their own pace. “2013 is a promising year, especially for the grapes coming from the Uco Valley,” commented winemaker Leonardo Erazu from Altos Las Hormigas. “A more balanced ripeness was achieved… with wonderful natural acidity and less potential alcohol.”

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May 28, 2013
Q&A: Charlie Arturaola

Written for Wine-Searcher.com

Uruguayan Sommelier Charlie Arturaola was picked as Wine and Spirits Communicator of the Year in 2012 and stars in wine film El Camino del Vino among other TV appearances. He’s renowned for his bubbly personality and for having one of the top palates in the industry.

What do you see when you look in the mirror?

I used to see a wine taster! I feel like the Robin Hood of wine these days. My mission until the day I die is that I need to bring better quality wine to young palates to open their senses and find out that you don’t need to spend $200 on a wine or buy a Grand Cru to say it’s a good wine. There’s a lot of good wine out there for $5 to $10.

Where did you grow up and what was your childhood like?

My childhood was hard. My wife tells me not to say that… but my mother died very young. I didn’t end up in an orphanage, my father was such a great person in terms of trying to keep us together that he sent me to my Aunt’s house, which was very rigid and regimented!

My sister did a PHD in Biology and I got really into fermentation and bacteria, I was always into photosynthesis as a kid. My grandmother was great in the garden. I would escape from my Aunt to go with my grandmother to plant the garden! We’d plant tomatoes, parsley, lemon trees… you name it!

I suffered for not having my mother, but it pays back because after hours of British school, I learnt my languages and French. I lived in a very multi-cultural neighbourhood in Uruguay.

It was very limited in terms of coming from working class in the very hard times of Uruguay in the 70s or 80s… The only thing you want to do is survive and so I went to Europe when I was 19 and that changed my life – it opened my eyes.

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May 17, 2013