Tag: wine

Viognier: One Lucky Grape

Written for The Guardian, 5 May 2017

Always a tricky one to pronounce (ignore the g, it’s pronounced vee-on-nay), viognier has a long and interesting history. While most consider viognier a Rhône variety, it actually originated in Croatia.

Legend has it that Roman Emperor Probus was so enamoured with the wine – and its characteristic peach, apricot and blossom aromas – that he ordered the variety to be brought into the Rhône in AD281. It has been used in the region’s wines ever since.

What few people remember is that viognier actually came close to extinction in the 1960s, when just 15 acres remained. Its demise could perhaps be put down to the variety being particularly challenging to grow and ferment. That is not, however, where the story ends. In the past few decades, New World winemakers took up the mantle of making viognier, and it now flourishes in both northern and southern hemispheres. Each region offers a unique expression of the wine, but all share the beloved orchard fruit and invigorating blossom aromas that enticed Emperor Probus almost 2,000 years ago.

Viognier’s warm fruit aromas together with its luscious, full body make it well-suited to food that often seems hard to pair – such as spicy stir-fries and sweet-and-sour dishes.

Written for The Guardian, Published in Print Magazine May 2017

May 16, 2017
Women in Wine: Argentina

Twenty years ago, it was hard-won to find a female working in the wine industry in Argentina, let alone a female winemaker. But today women are taking their place in the sector and this year’s Argentina Wine Awards boasted an all-female tasting panel, bringing to light the role that many of the fairer sex now play in the industry. This feature for The Drinks Business looks at some of the female trailblazers of the industry, and also some of the up-and-coming young female winemakers of Argentina.

1. Susana Balbo

Susana Balbo is unquestionably one of the most remarkable women in wine, not only in Argentina. Head winemaker and owner of Dominio del Plata, Balbo is at the top of her game, but reaching these heights as a woman was not easy. Hardships began early for young Balbo who had wanted to study Physics, but – due to the military dictatorship – had to pick a degree closer to home (which in Mendoza, is winemaking).

Even the early 80s, Balbo wasn’t the only female in the class – out of 33 classmates, 17 were women. She was however the only woman to graduate, making her the first female winemaker in South America. She puts the low completion rate down to having to take a late night bus (past the 10pm curfew), creating more vulnerability for women during the tyrannical military regime.

Life wasn’t easy as the first female in the profession. “I couldn’t get a job in Mendoza, I was rejected from many applications because I was a woman,” she confesses. It wasn’t until an opportunity arose in Salta, that she got her first job in a winery – partly because some of the hiring process was made by a headhunting firm in Paris, France.

Her move to Salta was indeed fateful…

For the full article, you can view the PDF here.

2. Laura Catena

One of the greatest spokespersons and ambassadors for Argentine wine abroad, Laura Catena splits her time between San Francisco where she is a doctor, and Mendoza where she works in her family winery, Catena Zapata. Author of Vino Argentino, Chair of IWSC in 2014, international guest speaker – Catena’s communications achievements are endless.

Although she might already be considered as reaching a par with her industrious father Nicolas Catena in terms of promoting Argentine wine, it is her work as a scientist that is most remarkable. When she started working at the winery in 1995, there were few women and convincing a largely male team that she – a young female graduate – knew better when it came to vineyard research, was a challenge…

For the full article, you can view the PDF here.

3. Gabriela Celeste

While female winemakers are growing in number, female wine consultants are still a very rare breed. After meeting the French consultant winemaker Michel Rolland while working in Trapiche in 1996, Celeste begin her international education in wine and is now the right hand of Rolland as his partner at their consultancy firm, EnoRolland. Though she works under the Rolland brand as a consultant, Celeste has made a name for herself in her own right…

For the full article, you can view the PDF here.

4. Andrea Marchiori

Having grown up running around her father’s vineyard in Lujan de Cuyo, Andrea Marchiori’s choice in the career was a natural one. Completing her winemaking degree as the only woman in the class, she headed to Sonoma in the US with her husband and fellow winemaker, Luis Barraud. There they met flying winemaker Paul Hobbs and while overseas began talks about a partnership back in her hometown of Mendoza. Now, with Hobbs and Barraud, Marchiori fronts a successful winery – Viña Cobos – where you can find some of Argentina’s most acclaimed, and most expensive, wines…

For the full article, you can view the PDF here.

5. Laura Principiano

Today Bodega Zuccardi is one of the most exciting investments in Argentina. A large family winery with young gun winemaker Sebastian Zuccardi at the head, it has brought forward innovations, finesse and has just opened a landmark new winery in the Uco Valley. Behind every great captain through, there is a great skipper. And the skipper of Zuccardi’s vessel is a woman – Laura Principiano. Plucked straight out of University to join Zuccardi in their experimentation lab…

For the full article, you can view the PDF here.

6. Andrea Mufatto

Coming into winemaking after having four children, Mufatto juggles motherhood with her growing career as the second winemaker for Zorzal and Head Winemaker for the family winery Gen del Alma. “Being a winemaker and a mother of 4 children is complicated! But winemaking is a lifestyle for us as a family, and with Gen del Alma we get to live our dreams and make these wines.”
Mufatto, like her brothers-in-law (winemakers Matias and Juan Pablo Michelini) and husband Gerardo Michelini, is a fan of a leaner, fresher style of wine with high acidity and more natural winemaking methods. Her wines focus heavily on playful co-fermentations, like for example Ji Ji Ji: a slightly madcap carbonic co-fermentation of Malbec and Pinot Noir…

For the full article, you can view the PDF here.

7. Valeria Antolin

Coming from a winemaking family, it wasn’t surprise to Antolín’s father (a renowned sparkling wine producer) that she wanted to study agronomy and winemaking. What might be somewhat surprising is that her female cousin and younger sister soon followed suit! After working in working in Viña Cobos, Antolín settled into a full time role in 2003 with her current employer, Piatelli, where she climbed her way to Head Winemaker for both their their Mendoza and Cafayate (Salta) wineries. Antolín has been significant in the development of the brand and in particular surprised many with her take on Torrontes…

For the full article, you can view the PDF here.

8. Paula Borgo

Head winemaker for Spanish-owned Septima, Paula Borgo is responsable for the wine and sparkling wine production of one of the bigger wineries in Mendoza. Her path in the industry also began through family: “My relationship with wine is due to my father, he is an agronomist that is very well connected to the sector,” says Borgo. “As a young girl, the countryside, the vineyards and wine, accompanied me through to my adolescence…

For the full article, you can view the PDF here.

9. Paula Gonzalez

One of the youngest female winemakers in the profession, 25-year-old Paula Gonzalez is second winemaker at Bodega Casarena in Lujan de Cuyo. Working under Head Winemaker Bernardo Bossi Bonilla, Gonzalez has played a hand in the development and launch of their latest DNA range and single vineyard range. While Malbec is still the flagship of the winery, it is a different variety that is the apple in Gonzalez’s eye: “Malbec is one of the most important varieties for us, but I think Cabernet Franc is one that is going to explode…

For the full article, you can view the PDF here.

10. Other Women in the Industry

“There are many families with daughters who want to work, and because family wineries and vineyards are such a big part of the industry it is inevitable that there will be more women working in every aspect of winemaking,” says Laura Catena, daughter of one of Argentina’s most renowned vignerons Nicolas Catena. Laura is, like many women in the industry, the new female offspring and offering in Argentine wine. Spot 10 on our list of women in wine is dedicated to the many women, and daughters, who are making the industry what it is today.

Female winemakers and agronomists like: Lorena Mulet (featured in last year’s 10 Winemakers to Watch, Cruzat), Carola Tizio (Vicentin), Soledad Vargas (La Anita), Estela Perinetti (LUCA), Silvia Corti (Argento), Romina Carparelli (Margot), Celia Lopez (Navaro Correas), Victoria Pons (Melipal), Pamela Alfonso (Altavista), and Victoria Prandina (Trivento) among others.

Of course for all the daughters moving into the industry as career women, the industry would never have developed to such an extent if it weren’t for the dedicated wives and mothers too. Many of whom have not only supported their husbands in a gruelling and time-consuming career, but raised a family that respect and admire their wine heritage.

Women also occupy some of the top sommelier and educator positions in Argentina, notably including Marina Beltrame (the first female sommelier in Argentina, and founder of Escuela Argentina de Sommelier) and Paz Levinson (currently Best Sommelier of the Americas).

Wine is no longer the realm of only men in Argentina, women are an increasingly integral part in the offices, the sales rooms, the restaurants, the laboratory, the winery, and the field.

By Amanda Barnes

Have women ‘feminised’ Malbec?

The appearance of more women on the winemaking scene might lead one to the rather simplistic conclusion that women are responsable for making Argentine Malbec more ‘feminine’. This would be doing a great disservice to all the male winemakers in Argentina, and also generalising about the winemaking style of female winemakers. As Argentina becomes more worldly in taste and experience, its Malbec has seen a great diversity of expressions in recent years: from more ‘masculine’, meaty Malbecs, to more ‘feminine’, ethereal and elegant Malbecs. Instead of gender, the different styles of Malbec are representative of different soils and micro-climates, changing winemaking tendencies, and the different personal tastes and experience of each maker. Often female winemakers make big and bold wines, and undoubtedly many male winemakers are the source of some of the most elegant Malbecs being produced in Argentina right now.

August 8, 2015
Empanada and Wine Pairing

Written for Grape Collective

If there’s one dish that you’ll find in every country in South America, it’s the mighty empanada. It may be fluffy and moist, or crisp and crunchy, bite sized or head sized, baked or fried… whatever texture and filling variation comes your way, these pockets of pastry are a perfect, unpretentious appetizer that pair wonderfully with the region’s wines.

One of my favorite dinner parties to throw is an empanada party – you only need to make one batch of empanada dough (a basic pie pastry) and you can let your imagination run wild with playful pairings, and you almost always find they work with South American wines. Here are some typical, and not-so-typical, South American empanadas to try pairing with the region’s wines.

Chile & Peru: Seafood Empanadas, Pisco and Sauvignon Blanc

These neighboring countries have a lot in common: stunning Pacific coastlines, high altitude winemaking and both claim to be the creator of Pisco! It’s not strictly a wine, but Pisco is grape-derived and, besides, a punchy Pisco Sour cocktail is a perfect way to kick off a South America tasting. Pisco (you can side with Peru or Chile) combined with lime juice, egg whites, powdered sugar (or syrup) and a dash of bitters makes a light and frothy, sweet and sour cocktail predestined to get everyone in the mood.

The best pair for Pisco Sour is traditional ceviche for a tongue twisting lime-citrus punch, fresh seafood flavors and aromatic cilantro. While I am the first to say that nothing beats a traditional ceviche, my unorthodox suggestion is an empanada twist on the national dish (let’s hope no Chilean or Peruvian great-grandmothers are turning in their graves at the thought!)

Leave the mixed seafood (cooked) and fish (raw, in cubes — try sea bass, grouper, sole, snapper or salmon) marinating with lime juice, finely chopped onion (salad onions or regular), red chilies, yellow pepper and cilantro for between 10 and 20 minutes, then stuff a couple spoonfuls of ceviche into your empanada skins, seal them well and deep fry until golden. The result is an empanada with warm, crispy pastry that contrasts wonderfully with the cool Pisco Sour but both harmonize in citrus, spice, sweetness and freshness. That should get everyone’s tongue tingling for the next course.

Another unmissable South American seafood empanada combo is the Chilean-inspired scallop and cheese empanada. Chile has a beautiful coastline and all along the seafront (especially towards the north) you’ll find empanada kiosks serving these freshly fried or baked empanadas that are just impeccable with coastal Chilean Sauvignon Blanc. I recommend wines from Casablanca, San Antonio, Leyda and Limari regions, and look for wineries like Amaral, Casas del Bosque, Leyda, Matetic and Tabali. The crisp, herbaceous and zesty Sauvignon Blanc pairs wonderfully with the sweet scallops and warm, saline melted cheese for a salty freshness and salivating snack that gives you a little taste of the ocean. Prawn and cheese empanadas also work well with Chilean Sauvignon Blanc, and if you really want to impress your friends try and get hold of some Chilean King Crab which goes a bit better with the rounder and creamier Chilean coastal Chardonnay.

Argentina & Uruguay: Meat Empanadas, Malbec, Torrontes, and Tannat

In Argentina and Uruguay, carne is king. Every dinner plate is dominated by steak, street corners are evocatively fragranced with a waft of asado (BBQ) in the air, and empanadas are almost always stuffed with their beloved cow.

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February 15, 2015
Interview with Robert Kamen, Kamen Estate

Interview for Wine-Searcher

You grew up in the city projects in the Bronx. How did you end up as a California winemaker?

I sold my first screenplay to Warner for $135,000 in 1979. I called my friend to celebrate and came down to Sonoma to meet him. We bought some wine, rolled some joints and came up here [to the vineyard]. There was no road or anything – we hiked for an hour and a half. I was an urban rat, I moaned the whole way until I got up here and saw that view. I sat here and said I could sit here forever, and he said: “You can, it’s for sale.”

The property’s stunning, but why vineyards?

I wanted to find the guy who grew the pot we smoked that day – it was the best in California – and so I found him, hiked up here with him, and he told me that his dream was to grow organic wine on hillsides. Nobody planted organic in 1979, especially in the mountains. In the last 30 years he [Phil Coturri] has become one of the best viticulturists in the world. He single-handedly brought organic viticulture to the mountains.

Your vineyards are biodynamic, why?

I was a child of the ’60s – lots of acid and flowers in my hair. I don’t care what anyone says, you can’t say using chemicals doesn’t go into the wine, or into [San Francisco] bay! I’m a firm believer in organic. Also my vegetables taste better. There’s great satisfaction in knowing that there’s no shit in what I eat.

Do you remember your first real taste of wine?

I spent a year in Afghanistan in 1971 with nomads doing research, and I wrote a novel, which got bought as a screenplay. I came home from Afghanistan, had some money and went to a wine store in New York. This man had changed his cigarette and food rations in World War II for Bordeaux wine and opened a wine shop [no longer in existence]. I gave him $1000 dollars and asked him to give me wine for a year. He gave me a case and told me to come back and tell him about it.

And what did you think?

At first I thought I was wasting my money – [it] was bitter and sour! I didn’t know what the fuss was about. Six months later I started appreciating what I was tasting; after a year I was hooked.

Is wine worth the fuss now?

It is now that I spent all that money in a vineyard! I’m enamored of wine … It’s still the thing that I look forward to at the end of the day. My cellar [more than 5000 bottles] is just for consumption.

What do you drink when you are not drinking your own Kamen Estate wines?

I don’t drink my own wines!

Why not?

…

Read the full interview on Wine-Searcher.com

February 10, 2015
Five Argentine wines to charm your Valentine’s

This weekend is February 14th. A date which men see as another date in another month, and most women see as the date of the month. Score some extra points this Valentine’s Day by gifting your lady a beautiful bottle of Argentine wine. Here are five for five very different type of women.

Written for The Vines of Mendoza

For the butter-wouldn’t-melt-in-my-mouth type: Deseado Dulce Natural, Familia Schroeder

You’ve already made her swoon by bringing her a bottle with ‘desired’ written on it, now pop the cork and let this sweet-talking, sparkling late harvest Torrontes do the work. A fruity, floral, peachy explosion with a moscato-style sweetness, this bubbly is sugar and spice and all things nice for most ladies. If conversation dries out, you can tell her the story about the dinosaur fossil found in the winery’s cellar.

What it says to her: You are my heart’s desire, sweetie pie.

For the down-payment in diamonds type: Boheme, Brut Nature

For the slightly higher maintenance lady in your life try Boheme by Luigi Bosca, one of the most expensive fizzes in South America. Partially fermented in barrel and using traditional Champagne grapes in the champenoise method, this sparkling wine is old world class in a sexy new world bottle. And who knows? You might manage to bring out the boheme in her…

What it says to her: There’s not a peso I wouldn’t spare on you darling.

For the intellectual type: Finca La Anita, Tocai

If you want to get her a white wine which is totally unique, try this Tocai from Finca La Anita. Tocai Friulano (aka Sauvignon Vert) isn’t planted much in Argentina, and so this uber small production is indeed a rarity: round and structured, this is a deep wine with a crisp finish. Bonus points if your true love’s name is Ana, or Anita.

If you want to say: You are unique, and I know it.

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February 9, 2015
Top 5 wine countries in South America

Written for the Grape Collective, January 2015

Where else in the world can you find glaciers, jungles, extreme deserts, and high altitude mountains all within one continent? South America is a land of extremes and even though the Spanish introduced wine over 500 years ago, it is still a new discovery to many wine drinkers worldwide.

Although you might more readily associate the continent with daring bikinis, football madness and the ability to throw a good fiesta, South America is increasingly putting itself on the wine radar for high quality wines at pocket friendly prices with a bold trend towards extreme climates producing exciting wines.

Visiting the wine regions can combine exotic highlands, stunning beaches, mountain plantations at dizzying heights and gentle sloping hillsides in between. Whether you are going to discover South America’s wines first hand by traveling there, or from behind a bar at home, as the New World continent with the biggest wine production, South America is one to watch!

Argentina: Where Malbec Runs Faster than Gauchos

It may be the biggest wine producer on the continent (and has international swagger as the 6th producer worldwide) but there really is just one variety that everyone associates with Argentina… and accounting for over 30% of the county’s red wine production, it is a correct assumption that Argentina’s lifeblood is Malbec.

The variety boomed in this dry and dusty cowboy country over a decade ago and is still going strong as the most important variety for the country. Contrary to popular belief though, there is more to Argentina than gauchos, steak and Malbec… You’ll now find a wide range of red, white and sparkling wines in the cosmopolitan bars of Argentina’s cities, and increasingly in cities worldwide.

Argentina’s vineyards are mostly located along the Western spine of the country where the high altitudes offered by the Andes mountains balance out with the abundant sunlight and warm continental climate on the flat plains below. Most of the vineyards are in a rain shadow allowing vines to thrive up and down the country: in the mid west lays Mendoza where you’ll find the juiciest and most generous Malbec as well as ripe and rich Cabernet (both Sauvignon and Franc), jammy Merlot, attractive oaked Chardonnay and soft fruit Sauvignon Blanc; in the north towards Salta and La Rioja you can expect Argentina’s native white grape, Torrontes, to steal the show with its captivating and exuberant jasmine and tropical nose, or try some of the intense high altitude reds; and furthest south is Patagonia, the heartland of Argentine Pinot Noir and cooler varieties.

Budget around $20 to get good value and occasionally spend upwards where you’ll find excellent quality in reds and blends. Don’t miss out on the sparkling wines either – they are another delicious benefit of Argentina’s 500 year-long love affair with vino.

Biggest Surprise – Argentina’s cool Cabernet Franc blends.

Most Comparable To – South Africa or the USA.

If You’re in the Mood For – Wild West and juicy reds.

Phrase You’ll Walk Away Saying – Che, ese Malbec es una joya! (Dude, this Malbec is a gem!)

Chile: The Skinny Country That Is Fat With Diversity

Hot on the heels of Argentina as the second biggest producer, Chile is commercially strong but is geographically isolated from the rest of South America, buffered by its extremities of the Atacama Desert, the freezing cold Pacific Ocean, the high Andes mountains, and a frozen tail of fjords and glaciers. The unique long and thin shape of Chile means that you get a great mélange of climates and landscapes within one country, and certainly within one case of wine.

The famous Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon with rich cassis and ripe fruits usually comes from the warmer Central Valleys where sunshine and lolling hillsides characterize the zone and produce intense, fruit-bomb wines. This is also where you’ll find some of the country’s best Carmenere: the obscure French grape that became a Chilean champion for its smoked pepper, sweet red fruit and food friendly nature.

If you head to the Pacific coast, you’ll find refreshing and zesty Sauvignon Blanc, dark and spicy Syrah, elegant Chardonnay and excellent value Pinot Noir from Chile’s cool, coastal regions. There are more cool climates to explore further south in Bio Bio and Maule where you find the country’s oldest vines producing unique Carignan, Pais (or Mission), Malbec and field blends.

Last but not least, up at the far north of Chile, the star-bright Atacama and Elqui regions – with some of the clearest skies in the world – are producing racy whites and intensely aromatic Syrah.

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January 30, 2015
Perfect Pairings for Thanksgiving

Written for Grape Collective

Picking a wine for Thanksgiving is no easy feat. One of the most anticipated events of the year, you’ve got a long day of drinking and eating ahead, a large family to please, and the inevitable competition coming from beer drinkers — this is a tough holiday for the noble bottle of wine! Hit it right though, and you’ll get everyone in the wine mood for the holiday season.

Don’t just pick one wine, get a mixed case and work through them as everyone else works through firsts, seconds, and thirds of the feast.

Before sitting down to eat, the obvious pour is one that will get everyone in the festive mood — otherwise known as fizz. Try a fruity and fanciful Prosecco like Adami Vigneto Giardino Brut Prosecco for something light; or go a little richer and more complex (especially if you want to impress the in-laws) with a Champagne, and you can get some of that Old World richness with the more affordable option of a Vouvray, such as Huet Vouvray Petillant Brut, which offers complexity and creaminess at a price point easier to keep flowing. If you want bubbles but have a few relatives who won’t easily switch out from beer, perhaps get a good bottle-fermented cider such as Angry Orchard’s Strawman.

Sparkling wine is a pretty great option for the sit-down lunch, too — bubbles go with almost anything. And if you are attempting the death-defying deep fried turkey this year, a sparkling wine will be your best friend (and probably offer cold relief from the fire hazard pot flaming outside). A little bit more structure and the defined red fruit notes you find in a sparkling rosé like Graham Beck Brut Rosé give you a good balance with the richness of a fried turkey.

Pink (even without the bubbles) is a great all-rounder for Thanksgiving. You’ll want to keep with dry rosé with a high acidity that offer a bit of palate cleansing to wash down the gravy and mash. A light and crisp rosé with delicate red fruit like JCB Cotes de Provence No5 is the perfect accompaniment with light and juicy turkey served with traditional Cranberry sauce, which echoes the tart red fruit in the bouquet and fresh mouth, and would also work beautifully with any seasonal crab starters; or try a more intense rosé like a Grenache from Spain such as Las Rocas de San Alejandro which pairs well with fuller flavoured stuffing or the darker turkey meat.

While pink is the safe mid-point between white and red, there are, however, many whites that will stand up to the job. Think dry, high-acid German Rieslings like Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Spatese Anrecht to cut beautifully through the dulcet sweet potato mash; or a more citrus-based and less conventional New York Riesling like Dr. Konstantin Frank Dry Riesling for an affordable imbibe to highlight the aromatics of zesty turkey stuffing; or try Smith Madrone Riesling 2010 Napa Riesling for more peachy aromatics to pair with a warmer, fruit-based stuffing. Other great peachy white varieties include Albariño and Viognier.

Read the full article on Grape Collective

November 20, 2014
A selection of His & Hers wines from Mendoza

Written for The Vines of Mendoza

While it feels awfully sexist to try and generalize about the tastes of women, and men, we all know that there are certain attributes that make a wine more feminine, or more manly. You might struggle to gift a man a bottle of Rosé in public, or a shy and retiring lady a Methuselah of a rich red blend. Having a little fun with some of these preconceptions, here’s a selection of great wines from Mendoza although never be afraid to break the rules.

For Her

Here is a pick of five wines for the femme fatale of your life… (whether that is your girlfriend, wife, or your mom!)

Celestina Reginato, Rose de Malbec

If it’s got bubbles and it’s pink, it is pretty much a shoe-in right? Add a beautiful woman on the bottle and you’ve got the perfect lady sparkling wine. It certainly looks good in the bottle and glass, and fortunately these looks are not deceiving… this rose tastes great too! An elegant Malbec from the Uco Valley with the complexity of a traditional method champenoise.

Carmela Benegas, Rosé

With another dashing woman on the bottle, this wine was actually named after one of the Benegas children. As one might say that the daughter is the fruit of a mother’s womb, this wine is the fruit of a mother grape – achieved by ‘sangre’ method (the first, free-running juice from red grapes before they are taken to be made into a more robust red wine). Technical details and tenuous comparisons aside, this is a lovely, fresh rosé made from everyone’s new favorite Argentine variety – Cabernet Franc.

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November 16, 2014
Top 5 wines from Patagonia

Recently I’ve been down south exploring the gorgeous wilderness of Patagonia, which definitely needs to be on everyone’s bucket list. At the same time, I’ve been exploring the wine lists and cellars of various dining establishments and here are five fabulous wines to try.

Bodega Chacra, Pinot Noir

This boutique production winery makes a beautifully delicate Pinot Noir with nuanced flavors of cherry and earthy hints. The grapes come from older organic and biodynamic vineyards and the project is the brain child of Italian wine-royalty Piero Incisa della Rocchetta. Either try the Cincuenta y Cinco Pinot (from a 1955 vineyard), or the Trienta y Dos Pinot (yes, you guessed it – from a 1932 vineyard).

Bodega Patritti, Pinot Noir Primogenito

Patagonia is quite rightly the land of Pinot Noir and this Pinot is very nice for good for its appealing price point. Fruity, fresh and bold enough to stand up to yummy Patagonian lamb stone-oven pizza!

Humberto Canale, Old Vineyard Riesling

One of the pioneers of Patagonian winemaking, Humberto Canale make many wines, however this Riesling is a real surprise. Made from older vineyards (from 1937) in Rio Negro is one of the very few single variety Rieslings you’ll find in Argentina. Abound with peach and citrus fruits and a nice oily mouth making it a good wine for the many varieties of shellfish you’ll find here.

Bodega Fin del Mundo, Tannat FIN

You expect to see Tannat more in Uruguay than Argentina, but this single variety is surprisingly supple for such a characterful grape. Intense and concentrated with 18 months in oak, from the winery at the ‘end of the world’ (fin del mundo).

Saurus, Deseado Sparkling

With dinosaur fossils discovered in their cellar, Saurus has a story but also has the good wines to back it up. This is a wine for the ladies (or for the men who can pull off pink shirts) as it is a slightly sweet sparkling Torrontes. Perfect for a winter apple crumble by a warm fire!

July 1, 2014
Lunching in Mendoza’s wine country: Ruca Malen

Ever since moving to the sunny and pleasant land of Mendoza, my favorite pastime has been eating in wineries. Yes, the mountains are awe-inspiring, the sunny days permeate your skin to warm your soul and the people all flatter you till your knees melt; but for me, it’s all about lunch…

Ruca Malen has been one of the top foodie destinations in Mendoza for quite some time and since winning Best Wine Tourism Restaurant (in the world no less!) last year, the secret is definitely out. Although when I went there for lunch the other day, chef Lucas Bustos revealed another secret about the restaurant, which is rather less discovered.

On most winery lunch dates (you’re just beginning to see the tip of the iceberg of how often I indulge in them) I’ll gobble up each course contentedly satiating myself in the thoughtful plays between texture, taste and colour. All the while, working out the wine pairings with my figurative devil sommelier on one shoulder and angel chef on the other. They whisper, babble and whimper to each other as they watch over me stuffing down another six courses, occasionally parping up to comment on a pairing out loud.

Ruca Malen has been on our radar for some time now, so when I went a month ago I thought that there was almost no stone left unturned in my experience of dining at Ruca. After a quick chat with Lucas though, he’d given my shoulder friends the proverbial slap with a wet fish and they were left belly-up and wriggling on the floor. It turns out we’d missed the biggest part of the menu concept!

As a former, and partially rehabilitated, literature student, it is an understatement to say I like a good story. And a good story is exactly what Lucas tries to weave into his tasting menus, whether you notice it or not. Admittedly I had not noticed the beginning of the tale, my stomach getting the better of me as I tore apart the fancifully decorated plate of quinoa, herbs, apple and nutty breadcrumbs. I reveled in the crisp, tart apple, and the aromatic herbs with the bright orchard fruit and refreshing acidity of the Chardonnay. What I’d neglected to notice though was that the scribbling under the food, aside from just looking like a nice map of Argentina and an explanation of the ingredients, was an account of the native tribes that inhabited the land and the food that they would forage for. From the West came the quinoa, harking back to the Incas in Andean lands; from the East the apple and fruit from more tropical climates; and in the centre the breadcrumbs (admittedly a bit before their time) from the wheat bowl of Argentina – the pampas. It was an edible map of the land before time!

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May 9, 2014