© Amanda Barnes | Marcos Etchart’s boutique winery, Yacochuya, in high-altitude Cafayate

When wine lovers think of Argentina, it’s usually the malbec grape that springs to mind. But that could be set to change, as producers step up their promotion of the country’s lesser-known white wine, torrontes.

The highly aromatic grape variety is a chameleon, and its hard-to-pin down character explains why locals call it “the liar.” Its heady aromas exude lychee, rose petals, stone fruits, jasmine and spice – tricking drinkers into thinking the wines will be sweet. The palate, however, is unexpectedly dry, with a tendency towards bitterness.

“Torrontes has a great chance to develop beautiful flavors. It’s a very generous variety,” says winemaker Susana Balbo. But she concedes that for producers, “it’s a wine that’s very difficult to get the proper balance.”

Torrontes lay low for many years, used in blended white wines, but as a young winemaker in the 1980’s Balbo pioneered it as a single variety wine. While working in the far northern region of Salta, she attempted to turn vast swathes of torrontes grapes into quality wine through improved vineyard practices and reduced skin contact in the winery, creating a fresher, fruity style.

The influx of foreign investment into Argentina over the last decade led to further advancements. French winemakers at Alta Vista addressed the variety’s low level of natural acidity by making three tris through the vineyard.

“The intention of separating the dates of harvest was to be able to produce wines with different characteristics,” says Alta Vista’s winemaker Matthieu Grassin. The first pick brings acidity to the final blend; the second the typical torrontes aromas; and the last, he says, brings more exotic fruits and fullness – resulting in what he thinks is a more balanced wine.